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Kreuzberg 61 - around Bergmannstraße For many Berliners, the district of Kreuzberg is unofficially divided into an East and a West. The eastern half, SO36 (named after its former district code, South-East 36), still qualifies as grounds for wild anarchism; in contrast, the west, Kreuzberg 61 (named after its former postal code), has the reputation of being a well-off, almost upper-class neighborhood for the alternative scene. Not long ago, the saying here was: "The guy from 61 drives a Mercedes, and the guy from SO36 rips the Mercedes star off the hood". The Kreuzberg experience can best be tested in the areas between Yorkstr., Gneisenau Strasse, Bergmann Strasse and Viktoria Park. What the Haight-Ashbury represents for San Francisco, is Viktoria Park in Berlin: in the past a home to pot-heads, today a meeting place for young families with baby strollers. In the center of Viktoria Park rises the Kreuzberg. The district was named after this 66-meter hill, the highest in the City. In 1820, a monument was placed on top of the Kreuzberg: a flight of steps made of stone which lead up to a neo-Gothic cross. From here, the view of the City to the north is fantastic. Near to Viktoria Park lies Riehmers Hofgarten. This residential area from the 1920s is an example for humane city planning and architecture -- far from the notorious inner courtyards that were constructed in Berlin at same time. Yorkstrasse and Gneisenaustrasse lead through the middle of Kreuzberg. It is mostly in the evenings when the action gets going on these two broad streets: a row of bars and restaurants, one after the other. Bergmannstraße is downtown Kreuzberg 61 and the interesting place to be. It is a great area to discover trendy cafés, ethno snackstands and second-hand shops. Just a few meters away is Chamissoplatz. In this area, many rows of buildings, untouched by the bombing attacks of WW II, have managed to survive and the area is one of the most beautiful in Berlin. In the very north of Kreuzberg is Checkpoint Charlie -- "You are now leaving the American sector" -- crossing point between the East and the West where the Wall once stood. Today, you'll still see on an old East German watch tower. If you are interested in the history of the Wall, the Checkpoint Charlie Museum is a wonderful source of photos, videos, relics and exhibitions from that time.

Cafés Atlantic established scene-café in bustling Bergmannstrasse Barcomi's home to best bagels and brownies. Le must de Kreuzberg

Restaurants Bar Centrale elegant, very Italian restaurant with bar Chandra Kumari nice locale with Ceylonese food Locus Kreuzberg pub with good Mexican dishes Osteria No.1 for years beloved by artists and architects Sale e Tabacchi stylish interior designed by architect Tres Kilos well-loved Tex-Mex at Marheinikeplatz Van Loon a sailing ship, forever anchored in Berlin

Bars Haifischbar almost a tad too chic for Kreuzberg     Clubs Junction Bar Jazz and Soul, live in a subterranean club Golgatha traditional open-air institution located in Victoria Park

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